Handbag Dilemmas: Chanel Chevron or Diamond Quilting? 

Origins

Diamond quilting was initially used with the introduction of the famed Chanel 2.55 bag – the first handbag with long straps to be carried hands-free. The stitching always measures a complete number of diamonds across – never halves – and is said to be inspired by equestrian riding gear. Coco Chanel, an avid horse rider since the 1910s, was introduced to it by Étienne Balsan. Others speculate the diamond stitching paid homage to the stained-glass windows of the Aubazine orphanage where she grew up. 

Contrastingly, chevron is a bold geometric pattern with diagonal lines pointing almost instinctively to the iconic Chanel lock – a Chanel hardware hallmark. In essence, it’s the updated version of the classic diamond quilting and has become more popular with a younger demographic.

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Side-by-side comparison of a Timeless Maxi Flap Bag in Lamb leather, coloured black with (1) the Diamond stitching pattern and (2) the Chevron stitching pattern. 

How are Quilted Chanel Bags Made?

At Chanel, elegance dances with artistry. Thus, creating a quilted Chanel bag is not a mere task; skilled artisans employ a meticulous and painstakingly 18-hour approach, delicately refining every detail with precision and care.

To give an impression of what goes into making a quilted bag, the journey begins with carefully selecting premium lamb- or calfskin leather, the preferred materials for this technique. Each component of the bag is intricately quilted in the diamond or chevron pattern, using the’ point droit de couturière’ technique, which roughly translates to ‘dressmaker’s straight stitch’. 

The outer pockets, dubbed ‘Mona Lisa’ after the iconic painting’s wry smile, are diligently handsewn onto the bag. The emblematic double C logo beneath the flap is stitched on before the separate components are manually assembled using the bag-in-the-bag technique, a methodical process that ensures every seam is flawless. 

The metal chain is hand-braided and interlaced with a leather ribbon, while the metal eyelets and the double C clasp are carefully placed and positioned, completing the masterpiece.

Comparison of the Classics

Chevron Aesthetic

While Chevron is technically a repeating zigzag formation, Chanel bags have taken its motif as a design, transforming it into a single “v” formation. The solid angular lines create an illusion of depth and movement, exuding a modern and edgy vibe. It’s the perfect bag if you prefer contemporary fashion. 

A classic but vibrant red Chanel Timeless Chevron will be a guaranteed head-turner. For a more unexpected aesthetic, a cheerful yellow Chanel Timeless Chevron breaks the monotony and infuses a sense of daring into your ensemble. 

Diamond Aesthetic

Diamond quilting is what most people think of when it comes to Chanel. The field of delicate diamonds showcases a softer, more romantic aesthetic. Whether it’s the diamond association or the Chanel charm, the bag adds a luxurious and vintage touch to your attire. 

If you have a penchant for a more classic, sophisticated style, a soft pink Chanel 19 is a ladylike choice. Whereas the quintessential black Timeless Jumbo is never misplaced in your wardrobe.

Styles and Colours

As a fundamental design choice, most Chanel bags come in either diamond or chevron quilting. However, certain styles, such as the Chanel Deauville and unique renditions like the Chanel Cruise 19 La Pausa Lifesaver, diverge from this trend. 

These bags embrace a different aesthetic. Opting for eclectic fusion, this black suede Deauville comes with a lively, brightly-coloured twist, whereas this charming pink Deauville fully adopts the Chanel-chic tweed look.

However, favourites such as the iconic 2.55, the revisioned Chanel 19, the Timeless Flap Bag, the edgy Boy Bag, the delicate WOC, and more are all available in either of the quilted patterns. 

The palette of Chanel colours available for these quilted bags knows no bounds. Naturally, the classics—black, white, pink, and red—are there if austere simplicity is more your style. Yet, while exploring the extensive realm of hues, you might find that a standout silver Gabrielle or a neon Flap bag casting a futuristic glow is the perfect colourway to match that one special occasion. 

Prices and Resale Value 

Due to its extensive and illustrious heritage and distinctive style, quilted bags are highly sought after in the fashion world. Among these, diamond quilted bags, being the pioneers, hold exceptional value and can command high prices. 

The unstoppable combination of a coveted Chanel Timeless Flap with the iconic quilted pattern can fetch up to € 9K on the secondhand market.

Ultimately, the choice depends on the look you want, the style you feel comfortable in, and the bag that speaks to you.

Find the quilted Chanel Bag of your dreams on SACLÀB, or let us know what quilted design or leather colour has captured your attention, and we’ll take care of it!