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Hermès Birkin Guide

Hermès Birkin Guide

The Birkin, a bag among the most coveted of all collectables. Its famed story goes something like this: In 1981, Jane Birkin, while on an Air France flight, discussed her need for a spacious handbag with Jean-Louis Dumas, Hermès’ CEO. Inspired by their conversation and Birkin’s sketch on an aeroplane sick bag, Dumas created the Birkin bag, naming it after the English singer and actress. This expert guide navigates you through the intricacies of the Birkin bag – from leather to hardware, sizes to prices. Read on to explore Hermès’ ultimate handbag icon.

Text by Hagar Eita
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The Birkin is available in a wide array of Hermès colours and leathers. There are 4 standard Birkin sizes: 25, 30, 35, and 40, with demand decreasing as size increases. SACLÀB has sold 524 pre-loved Birkins since 2018, 135 Birkin bags in 2023 alone. Prices range between €10,000 to €40,000 on the secondhand market, while a regular leather Birkin 30 will set you back around €9,400 in Hermès boutiques. Exotic leather Birkins range between €20,000 to over €200,000 on the secondhand market, and between €35,000 to €50,000 in-store. The highest-priced Birkin SACLÀB ever sold was the Hermès Birkin 20 Faubourg Sous La Neige Matte Alligator Leather, which sold for €256,000. It was the most expensive handbag ever listed in Germany. A specialist in Hermès handbags, you’ll usually find a selection of 20-30 authentic pre-loved Birkin bags available in stock at SACLÀB. In stock, the highest-priced Birkin is the Birkin 35 Porosus Crocodile in Vert Foncé for €40,712. In stock, the most affordable Birkin is the Hermès Birkin 40 Vache Fjord Black, which goes for €8,440.

“A Birkin bag may come with a high price tag, but it’s an investment that appreciates over time. Its value doesn’t just hold—it often increases, making it a luxury purchase that pays off in the long run.”

Alexandra Stueck, Co-Founder and Creative Director

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How do I choose the right Birkin bag?

Choosing the right Birkin bag involves considering multiple factors like size, leather, colour, and budget to ensure the perfect fit for your lifestyle and personal style.

Determine Your Needs: Consider the bag’s size based on your daily activities and how much you need to carry. Choose between compact sizes like the Birkin 25 for a more elegant look or larger sizes like the Birkin 35 or 40 for added practicality. Select the Leather and Colour: Choose a leather type that suits your lifestyle, such as Epsom for durability or Clemence for softness. Select a colour that complements your wardrobe and meets your personal style preferences. Check Availability and Budget: Review your budget and check the availability of your preferred size, leather, and colour through Hermès boutiques or trusted resale platforms. Be prepared for possible waiting lists or higher prices for specific combinations. Resale platforms can be useful for finding hard-to-get pieces. Check SACLÀB’s curated selection, or talk to one of our experts to help you find the perfect bag.

Find the best Hermès Birkin bag for you!

An Hermès Birkin, Paris street fashion Fall/Winter 24. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Hermès Birkins in real life

While they say images speak louder than a thousand words, for a hefty price like this, it’s advisable to see what a bag looks like in real life and on a person. Visit our SACLÀB Instagram page to see how our customers are styling their Birkin bags. Or make an appointment with our virtual advisory service and explore your desired bag from every angle—corners, hardware, interior, and size—so you can shop with confidence.

Juliane Diesner with a Birkin 25 from Barenia Faubourg in Fauve. Image: @styleshiver

How do you recognise an authentic Birkin bag?

At SACLÀB, our experts use a rigorous authentication process to verify each Hermès Birkin bag. To ensure your Birkin is genuine, consider the following key factors:

Sizing

Authentic Birkin bags maintain flawless symmetry and should stand upright on their own, including the handles. Check that the handle height from the top of the bag is exactly 12.7 cm. Genuine Birkins come in specific sizes (e.g., Birkin 30 measures 30 cm across the base), and any deviations from these standard sizes may indicate a counterfeit.

Stitching

Hermès bags are hand-stitched with precision. Genuine Birkins feature stitches that lean in opposite directions on the front and back, with no loose threads or uneven lines. Machine-perfect stitching often suggests a fake.

Material

Real Hermès Birkins have a subtle leather scent, contrasting with the stronger smells of leather, glue, or plastic in counterfeits. The leather should feel distinct—like the stamped Epsom leather or the fine-pebbled Togo leather. Authentic Birkins are also typically lined with grained Chèvre (goatskin) leather.

Colour 

Hermès introduces new colours each season along with timeless classics. To verify colour authenticity, compare your bag with other confirmed examples online. Note that colour variations can occur depending on the leather.

Hardware

Hermès hardware should be heavy, without ridges, and operate smoothly. Ensure that metal components like zippers and buckles are consistent in colour. Genuine Birkins have smooth-topped rivets, which are often missed by counterfeiters.

Details

Hermès Birkins do not come with authenticity cards. Instead, focus on the branding stamps, which should be clear and well-proportioned. The stamp should read “Hermès Paris,” and in vintage pieces, “Made in France” indicates post-1970 production. Look for additional stamps such as a horseshoe for Hermès special orders or a shooting star for personal use. Date stamps behind the front strap or on the inside wall will indicate the bag’s age with letter codes, such as “Y” for 2020.

“Spotting an authentic Hermès Birkin has become difficult with super-fakes. However, in general, the first impression should always be ‘the bag feels good.’ It has a good form and shape and no chemical smell. Yet upon the first impression, you should take a closer look at the hardware, stitching and details.”

Jan-Oliver Stueck, Co-founder of SACLÀB

What is the rarest Hermès Birkin?

While it’s difficult to say what the “rarest” Birkin is, the one that definitely tops the charts is the Himalaya Birkin 30 from Niloticus Crocodile. This bag has been repetitively dyed to mimic the snow-capped mountains of the Himalayas.

Hermès Birkin Himalaya
An Hermès Himalaya Birkin 30 from Niloticus Crocodile, sold on saclab.com

Other honourable mentions we’ve had at SACLÀB that surely prove to be your most prized possession are the Birkin 20 Faubourg Sous La Neige Matte Alligator Leather—named “Faubourg” after the house’s flagship store at 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris—is another worthy contestant. 

Following the Faubourg, another masterpiece that epitomises Hermès’ dedication to luxury and craftsmanship is the Birkin 30 Porosus Crocodile Black with White Gold and Diamond Hardware. The bag is adorned with 245 VVS diamonds totalling 10.02 carats and featuring 170 grams of 18k white gold hardware.

Finally, a bag that truly resembles a work of art is the embroidered Birkin, customized by Jay Ahr. Jay Ahr, founded by artist Jonathan Riss, is renowned for its intricate embroidery on pre-owned Hermès Birkin bags, making each piece a unique work of art. The process, which involves carefully deconstructing, customising, and reassembling the bag with its original yarn, can take up to a year to complete.

What is the most popular Hermès Birkin?

The most popular Hermès Birkin is the Birkin 30 in Togo leather coloured in Gold. This size is perfect for daily use, offering ample space to carry your essentials and more while remaining compact and manageable. The grained Togo leather is a fan-favourite due to its durability, excellent shape retention, and resistance to scratches. The Gold colour is a timeless classic from Hermès, complimenting any outfit. As a first Birkin, this bag’s versatility ensures that you make the most out of your prized purchase, blending practicality with luxury seamlessly.

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FAQ

How much does it cost to make a Birkin bag?

According to an equity analyst at Exane BNP Paribas, the production cost of a basic Birkin is estimated to be around $800—as was stated in The Economist. Hermès attributes the bag’s high price to the exquisite craftsmanship involved. Each Birkin is handmade by a single artisan, taking many hours to complete, especially when using delicate materials like crocodile skin. Hermès justifies its prices based on these costs, although the actual production expenses are just a fraction of the final retail price.

Why is the Birkin bag so expensive?

The Hermès Birkin bag is so expensive due to its impeccable craftsmanship, exclusivity, and status as a luxury investment piece. Each bag is handmade by a single artisan, taking about 40 hours to complete, using the finest leather and meticulous stitching. The limited production, high demand, and selective availability add to its rarity and value. Additionally, the Birkin’s timeless design and durability make it a coveted item that retains and often increases in value over time. It is said to double in value every 5 years. 

Inside the Hermès In The Making at the Somerset Collection in Troy, Michigan. Image: William Jess Laird / Courtesy of Hermès / Vogue

How long do you have to wait to get a Birkin bag?

The wait time for a Birkin bag at Hermès can vary since the official—and famed—waiting list no longer exists. Instead, you need to build a relationship with a sales associate and have a history of luxury purchases at Hermès, as it’s said this increases your chances. Hermès boutiques still operate a ‘wish list’ system where you can register your interest. Then it may still take anywhere from months to over a year depending on the boutique’s stock and the rarity of the bag of interest. For those who prefer immediate availability, reputable resellers like SACLÀB offer Birkin bags, allowing you to bypass the wait and purchase your desired bag in minutes.

How much is the cheapest Birkin bag?

While still relatively expensive, among the more affordable Birkins is Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Shoulder Birkin, starting at €3,500. For the original model, larger sizes are typically cheaper, with Birkin 40 bags on the secondhand market available for around €5,800, though they may not be in pristine condition. From an Hermès boutique, expect prices around €8,000 for a Birkin 25 in Togo leather.

An Hermès Shoulder Birkin, designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

What is the difference between a Birkin and a Kelly?

The main difference between a Birkin and a Kelly bag lies in their design and functionality. The Birkin has two handles and an open style with a flap that can be left open or closed, making it more casual and easier to access. The Kelly, on the other hand, has a single handle and a more formal, structured design with a top flap that must be securely closed using a turnlock and straps, making it more secure but slightly less accessible. Both are iconic Hermès bags with distinct characteristics and styles.

Caring for your Birkin bag

To maintain your Hermès leather bag, focus on preventive care rather than repairs, and consult a professional when needed for the best upkeep. 

However, there are some methods that may help you keep your Birkin in top condition for years to come. First, clean it with a dry microfiber cloth and use a mild leather cleanser for stubborn dirt. Store it stuffed with acid-free tissue paper to maintain its shape, and keep it in a dust bag away from direct sunlight and humidity. Avoid overstuffing the bag and protect it from sharp objects and water. For delicate leathers like Veau Doblis or exotic skins, seek professional care and consider a bag spa treatment every 1-2 years to preserve its quality and appearance. 

Price of an Hermès Birkin

The price of the Birkin is one of the most prominent characteristics of the bag, as prices can range from hovering around €8K to premium editions of more than €200K. Despite the high price, its value typically appreciates, with some models increasing by up to 78% in two years, especially when kept in pristine condition. For a detailed overview, check out our Reloved Luxury Report. If you’re shopping on a budget, consider looking for vintage Birkin bags, larger styles, or handbags that show some wear.

Resale value development for regular-leather Birkin bags at SACLÀB 2021-2023. Graph: Saclab.com
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