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Hermès Kelly Guide

Hermès Kelly Guide

The Hermès Kelly is a symbol of timeless elegance and craftsmanship. The bag takes its origins from the Haut à Courroies (HAC), originally designed to carry equestrian saddles. In the 1930s, it was reinterpreted into the Sac à Dépêches, which gained global recognition when Grace Kelly, after discovering it on the set of To Catch a Thief in 1954 and ordering six for herself, famously used it to hide her baby bump from paparazzi in the 1950s. This led to the bag being renamed in her honour. This guide delves into everything you need to know about the Kelly so you can make an informed decision on your next bag purchase.

Text by Hagar Eita
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The Kelly is available in a wide array of Hermès colours and leathers. There are 7 standard Kelly sizes: 20 (or Mini), 25, 28, 32, 35, 40, and 50, with popularity decreasing with size. SACLÀB has sold 809 pre-loved Kelly bags since 2018, 159 Kellys in 2023 alone. Prices range between €7,000 to €40,000 on the secondhand market, and between €10,000 to €15,000 in-store. Exotic Kellys generally range between €30,000 and €60,000 on the secondhand market, and between €20,000 to €45,000 in-store with outliers such as the Himalaya Diamond Kelly reaching beyond €300,000. As an Hermès handbag specialist, SACLÀB typically offers a curated selection of 25-35 genuine pre-loved Kelly bags in stock. The highest-priced Kelly SACLÀB ever sold was a Kelly 25 from Alligator in Vert Emerald for €74,000. In-stock, the highest-priced Kelly is the Kelly Himalaya 28 Niloticus Crocodile for €89,790. In-stock, the cheapest Kelly is the Kelly 32 Evercolor in Brown for €6,200.

“The Kelly is more than just a handbag; it’s a piece of functional art. Its impeccable craftsmanship and sleek, elegant design make it a symbol of luxury that transcends trends and time—a true collector’s dream.”

Alexandra Stueck, Co-Founder and Creative Director

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How do I choose the right Kelly bag?

Finding the perfect Hermès Kelly is all about blending style with practicality—here’s how to balance size, cut, colour, leather, and budget to make a timeless investment that suits you.

Size and Functionality: Determine your ideal size based on your lifestyle. The Kelly 25 is compact and chic, while the Kelly 28 and 32 offer more space for daily use. Opt between the Sellier or Retourne: While both styles are timeless, the Sellier has sharper, structured edges with exterior stitching, giving it a more formal, elegant look. The Retourné is softer with inward stitching, offering a more relaxed and casual style with rounded corners. Leather and Colour: Choose a leather type that suits your needs—Epsom for structure or Togo for a softer look. Select a colour that matches your wardrobe and style. A versatile neutral colour can match anything, but as an accessory, a bold colour will make a statement. Budget Consideration: Assess your budget, as prices can vary significantly based on leather, hardware, and rarity, with some options being more attainable or accessible than others.

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Hermès Kellys in real life

A Mini Kelly, Paris FW Fall/Winter 24. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

While images can give you an idea of a Hermès Kelly, seeing it in real life is key when making such a significant investment. For a better sense of how the bag looks and fits, check out our SACLÀB Instagram page to see customer styling examples. You can also book a session with our virtual advisory service to explore your desired bag from every angle—corners, hardware, interior, and size—so you feel fully informed when making your decision.

Claire Rose Cliteur wearing a Kelly 32 from Box in Black. Image: @clairerose

How do you recognise an authentic Kelly bag?

When authenticating a Hermès Kelly, it’s essential to understand what makes this iconic bag stand out. At SACLÀB, our experts use a rigorous authentication process to verify each Hermès Kelly bag. Known for its refined lines, single top handle, and timeless elegance, the Kelly is often imitated but never duplicated. With over 2,600 stitches and at least 20 hours of craftsmanship, the Kelly’s construction is a true mark of luxury. As you delve into the details of verifying a genuine Kelly, these elements are key in distinguishing the original from replicas.

Sizing

Authentic Kelly bags are renowned for their structured shape. They should stand upright on their own with a precisely positioned top handle. The proportions are key—standard sizes include 20, 25, 28, 32, 35, 40, and 50 cm, measured across the base precisely.

Stitching

Like all Hermès bags, Kellys are hand-stitched with the iconic saddle stitch. Genuine Kellys have stitches that are tight, even, and slightly angled. On the back, they lean opposite from the front, and there should be no loose threads or uneven lines. Machine-perfect stitching indicates a fake.

Material

Real Kelly bags are crafted from top-tier leathers like Epsom, Togo, or Swift. They often have a distinct, subtle leather scent. The interior is typically lined with soft, durable Chèvre (goatskin) leather. Be wary of counterfeits with overly strong smells of leather, glue, or plastic.

Colour 

Hermès regularly launches new seasonal colours alongside its classic shades. To ensure your bag’s colour is authentic, compare it with verified examples online, keeping in mind that variations in hue can occur depending on the leather type.

Hardware and straps

Authentic Kelly hardware is heavy, smooth, and consistent in colour across all metal components. Pay attention to the clasp, turn-lock, and feet. Kelly bags also feature a unique lock and key set stored in a small clochette and should have matching debossed numerical codes that are clean and precise. Poorly engraved or unclear numbers are a common sign of a counterfeit. The shoulder strap attaches securely with “Hermès” stamped on each ring.

Details

Hermès Kelly bags do not come with authenticity cards. Instead, focus on the embossed stamp, which reads “Hermès Paris Made in France” in crisp, well-proportioned letters. The date stamp inside the bag, hidden behind the strap or inside the lining, reveals the year of production with a letter code. Previously, Hermès used alphabetical letters within shapes to date bags (e.g., Square Q for 2013), but as of 2015, they’ve switched to a more discreet, proprietary system with single letters and no specific sequence—allegedly to discourage buyers from favouring newer bags. Look for additional symbols, such as a horseshoe for special orders or a star for artisan personal use. 

Take in the details of the hardware, making sure they’re well-proportioned and crisp. Image: SACLÀB

“Use a magnifying glass to inspect details like the engravings on the hardware. Compare them to the numerous close-up images available on the SACLÀB website to verify authenticity and ensure they match the high-quality standards of Hermès craftsmanship.”

Jan-Oliver Stueck, Co-founder of SACLÀB

What is the rarest Hermès Kelly?

A Kelly Himalaya 28 from Niloticus Crocodile, sold on saclab.com

Price and rarity often go hand in hand—especially when it comes to Hermès bags. Topping the charts year after year, the Kelly 25 Himalaya Diamond sold for close to €300,000 in 2024, with 2023 reaching a record year with a price of a little over €380,000. This matte crocodile Hermès bag features 18K white gold hardware adorned with 298 diamonds, totalling 3.50 carats. The diamonds embellish both the clasp and the padlock.

Yet, a bag that is often considered an alternative to the Himalaya, is the Kelly Danse—a hands-free iteration of the Kelly bag, with an adjustable strap for versatile styling options. The most rare form of this bag, however, is in Ombre Lizard. Ombre Lizard leather is known for its smooth gradient, transitioning from darker to lighter shades. The small, uniform scales give it a refined texture, and the meticulous dyeing process, combined with limited lizard skin availability, makes it highly exclusive.

What is the most popular Hermès Kelly?

Similar to the Birkin 30 in Togo Gold, the preferred Kelly style is the more petite 25 in Togo leather coloured in Gold or Black, but also other colours such as Étoupe and Étain will delight any Hermès lover. A Kelly—more often used as a smaller accessory bag—is the perfect day-to-night companion and brings an elegant flair to your ensemble. The combination of the neutral shades—classic and versatile—and the scratch-resistant and durable Togo leather make it the perfect first-time investment. While the Mini Kelly is also a best-seller, there has been a gradual shift away from tiny bags to more practical sizes.

Read more about the Hermès Kelly bag

What’s trending around Hermès Kelly bags

Get inspiration for your next Hermès bag from the SACLÀB journal

FAQ

Why Is the Hermès Kelly So Expensive?

The Hermès Kelly’s high price stems from its exclusivity, craftsmanship, and the scarcity principle. Limited supply and high demand have driven prices up, with regular-leather Mini Kellys starting at around €10,000 in boutiques but reselling for up to €40,000. Exotics can go up to €70,000 and beyond. Even at Hermès, obtaining a Kelly is unpredictable without a strong relationship with the brand. The meticulous craftsmanship and iconic design make it a luxury item worth the investment.

What are the special editions Kelly bags?

Special edition Kelly bags are unique versions of the classic Hermès Kelly, often created in limited quantities with distinctive materials, designs, or playful elements. These bags go beyond the brand’s standard leathers and skins, showcasing creative craftsmanship and rarity. Notable examples include the Kelly Picnic, made from Osier wicker and leather, blending rustic charm with luxury. The Kelly Doll (also known as the “Quelle Idole”) is another standout, featuring a whimsical design with a smiling face and moveable arms and legs, adding a playful touch to the iconic Kelly silhouette. These special editions are highly collectible due to their rarity and imaginative designs.

Example of (1) a Kelly Picnic in Osier Wicker, and (2) a Kelly Doll, sold on saclab.com

What are some other Kelly iterations?

Apart from the special editions, other Kelly iterations include the Kelly Cut, Longue and Pochette which are all smaller clutch bags introduced by Jean-Paul Gaultier. Gaultier also designed the Kelly Danse, which with its adjustable strap can be worn as a belt, a shoulder bag, a crossbody and a backpack. A lesser known model is the Kelly Lakis. It features two zippered front pockets and a large zippered pocket across the back, typically paired with a wider canvas strap for a comfortable and sporty look. A iteration closer to the original Sac a Dépêches is the Kelly Dépêches briefcase. This bag has a small top handle and the familiar turn-lock with strap, but lacks the width of a regular Kelly. Lastly, two bags that are harder to compare to the original Kelly are the Kelly Ado, which is a backpack version of the Kelly, and the So Kelly bags which are bucket bags. 

Comparison of different Kelly iterations: (1) a Kelly Cut Clutch Swift Rose d’Été, (2) a Kelly Pochette Longue Box Black, (3) a Kelly Pochette Ostrich Nata Boreal, (4) a Kelly Danse Evercolor Blue Lin, (5) a Kelly Lakis 32 Swift Jaune Ambre, (6) a Kelly Dépêches 36 Epsom Étain, (7) a Kelly Ado PM Evercolor Vert Criquet / Bleu Brume – all sold on saclab.com. And (8) a So Kelly 22 Togo Capucine. Image: ReBag

How much is the cheapest Kelly bag?

When it comes to the O.G. Kellys, larger models are typically less coveted and therefore less expensive. In combination with a model that’s been somewhat worn in, you could get pre-loved Kelly 32 for around €6,000. If you were to venture out a bit and invest in a slightly different Kelly model, a regular-leather Kelly clutch or the Kelly Ado—the backpack version—will set you back around the same, while a pre-loved Kelly a Dépêches goes for close to €5,000. 

What is the difference between a Birkin and a Kelly?

The difference between the Birkin and Kelly primarily lies in their design and functionality. The Birkin is more casual with two handles and an open design, while the Kelly is more structured with a single handle and a top flap that secures with a turn-lock and straps. The Kelly also comes with a shoulder strap, adding versatility. In contrast, the Birkin’s spacious interior and open style make it easier for everyday use, while the Kelly’s elegant and secure design offers a more refined and formal appeal.

Caring for your Kelly bag

To care for your Hermès Kelly bag, proper storage is key—keep it in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight and inside its dust bag when not in use. Stuff the bag with acid-free tissue paper or a bag pillow to maintain its shape, and avoid hanging it by the handle to prevent stretching. Clean the leather regularly with a soft, lint-free cloth and condition it with leather care products suited to its type. For delicate or exotic leathers, professional cleaning and maintenance at a bag spa every few years are recommended to preserve its beauty and value.

Price of an Hermès Kelly

On the secondary market, factors like condition, size, colour, and material greatly influence Kelly bag prices. Pristine bags with original packaging fetch higher prices, with colours like neutrals and pastels in greater demand. Exotic materials like crocodile or alligator command premium prices, with limited editions like the Himalaya Kelly topping €250,000. In contrast, older leather Kelly 32 or 35 bags with signs of wear sell for €6,000-€15,000. Yet, similar to the Birkin, the Kelly appreciates in value due to its scarcity. For a detailed overview, check out our Reloved Luxury Report. If you’re shopping on a budget, consider looking for vintage Kelly bags, larger styles, or handbags that show some wear.

Resale value develpment for regular-leather Kelly bags at SACLÀB 2020-2023. Graph: Saclab.com
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