Maria Grazia Chiuri: Empowering Women & Defying Norms

The Formative Years

Before Maria Grazia became the artistic director at Dior, she had meticulously crafted her fashion portfolio at some of the industry’s most influential brands. With over 30 years of experience, she witnessed a significant transformation in the fashion world. According to her, the industry evolved from being design-focused to becoming heavily centred around communication and storytelling. Having witnessed this change firsthand, Maria Grazia brings a wealth of knowledge and insight to her role, making her a trailblazer in the ever-evolving fashion landscape.

The Fendi Sisterhood

Maria’s ascent began at Fendi, where she found real sisterhood along with a great kickstart to her career. During these formative years, the sisters at Fendi became somewhat of mentors to Maria Grazia, instilling in her confidence and the intricate art of design –a craft she honed for 12 years at the brand. 

Valentino and Haute Couture

The next part of her journey led Maria Grazia to Valentino in Rome, a brand synonymous with haute couture. Here, Maria’s creative brilliance flourished alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli, creating a legacy that resonates with timeless elegance. The fusion of tradition and innovation became her trademark, a testament to her ability to bridge the gap between worlds.

A Woman’s Touch at Dior

In July 2016, fashion witnessed a seismic shift. For the first time in 70 years, a woman stood at the helm of Dior. And following in the footsteps of influential names like Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano, and Christian Dior himself is no mere task.

Her philosophy was simple: fashion is evolution and revolution intertwined. With a keen eye for the modern, she blended Dior’s legacy and language with contemporary flair. 

First Dior Collection

In her groundbreaking inaugural Dior collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri orchestrated a fashion spectacle that embodied her vision for the modern Dior woman. With a strong commitment to preserving individuality, she posed a pivotal question: What defines the Dior woman today? 

The answer materialised on the runway, where fencing-inspired ensembles evoked a delicate balance between strength and grace, a testament to her belief in a woman’s multifaceted nature. Feminist slogans boldly emblazoned on t-shirts challenged patriarchal norms. The collection also seamlessly intertwined elements of star signs and superstition, with Tarot card dresses reflecting Dior’s fascination with the mystical. 

Amidst this innovative fusion, classic pieces like tailored tuxedo jackets paid homage to Dior’s heritage, all imbued with a distinctive attitude guided by Chiuri’s muse, her 20-year-old daughter.

Despite time constraints, Chiuri orchestrated her debut show in a mere 10 weeks. The show was a fleeting yet profound 10-minute affair and unfolded in the enchanting back garden of the illustrious Rodin Museum in Paris. Here, a meticulously crafted man-made theatre emerged, reminiscent of the fencing room in Visconti’s The Innocent –one of Maria Grazia’s favourite films. After a private viewing, legendary Vogue editor Anna Wintour bestowed her coveted stamp of approval upon the collection. 

For Maria Grazia Chiuri, a career at Dior allowed her to match her ambitions with her values and create a platform where she fervently champions and supports women. From female artists to photographers, uplifting women is one of the greatest driving forces behind Chiuri’s work, marking a new era in the storied legacy of the House of Dior.

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Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Bag Creation 

While Dior’s clothing lines grace runways and capture hearts, the brand understands the pulse of the consumer and, therefore, their tendency to purchase Dior make-up, jewellery, perfume, and handbags instead of haute couture. Ergo, the Dior handbag has become a fashion staple.

Within this context of consumer allure, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s portfolio is nothing short of revolutionary. As the first order of business, she modernised the traditional Dior “Oblique” print by incorporating larger, squarer “D” s, giving it a contemporary twist. Below, we’ll outline some of our favourite Maria Grazia Chiuri creations.

The Dio(r)evolution

As part of Chiuri’s debut collection, this handbag style shows that Dior knows how to do it all. The Dio(r)evolution bag is bold and edgy with a boxy shape to match. With an adjustable shoulder strap that’s thick and wide, it falls comfortably on the shoulder. However, the exceptional twist is when this shoulder bag is transformed into a clutch, held by the DIOR slot handclasp.

The Dior Book Tote

Another fan-favourite Chiuri introduction is the practical yet stylish Dior Book Tote, a personal necessity born from her love for books. Available in five sizes – ranging from mini to large – and the functional mini phone bag, the Book Tote is a simple and spacious luxury favourite. 

The Dior Saddle Bag

She also revived the legendary Dior Saddle Bag, reimagining it from Galliano’s original design in 1999 that featured trends of its time, with elements like indigo denim, camouflage prints, and logomania canvas. The fresh update highlights Chiuri’s artisanal expertise, featuring a 1970s-inspired patchwork design adorned with “peace and love” inscriptions alongside a meticulously hand-embellished monogrammed canvas.   

The Lady D-Lite

In Maria Grazia’s creative hands, the Lady Dior also underwent a metamorphosis for the Spring-Summer 2020 collection. This classic bag transformed into the ‘Lady D-Lite’, an embroidered masterpiece with over a million stitches, reminiscent of the Book Tote’s intricate artistry. 

The Dior Bobby

A season later, the ‘Dior Bobby’ flap bag was introduced for Fall 2020. This hobo-style creation boasts refined lines and harmonious proportions. The adjustable shoulder strap, adorned with a military-inspired buckle, is both removable and customisable, allowing any of the four sizes to be carried by hand or worn crossbody.

The Dior Diorama

Chiuri’s reinterpretation of Raf Simons’ Diorama marked a departure from the older style, embracing supple-grained calfskin and elegant enamel details matching the hardware colour. Sadly, no longer in production, Dioramas can be found on the secondhand market, crafted from durable leathers and exotic skins. However, sporting this bag in a metallic sheen perfectly encapsulates her edgy appearance.

Dior Lady Art

Ending not with just a bag, but a visionary venture. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior Lady Art empowers artists to reimagine the iconic Lady Dior bag in their unique style. Yearly, this avant-garde project births extravagant Lady Dior renditions boasting diverse textures, prints, and embellishments. Available in limited quantities worldwide, these bags serve as a celebration of haute couture creativity and artistic diversity.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Legacy

On her shoulders rests the responsibility and profitability of the superbrand. Maria Grazia’s journey from Rome to Paris, from industrial design to haute couture, reflects her steadfast spirit. In every stitch, every cut, and every design, she contributes to redefining fashion, empowering women and defying norms—a true visionary in the ever-evolving world of style.

Discover the best Dior Bags by Maria Grazia on SACLÀB!

Header image: GAZETTE DU BON TON